標題來自 NY times 的文章
https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/27/opinion/mountain-climbing.html
爬山爬越多，越來越相信命運說，命中註定遇到的就是會遇到，其他的也只能交給上帝決定......(當然前提是該有的準備還是要做足啦)
討論登山的意義本身是件沒有意義的事，我們，莫名愛上攀登的登山者，只能靠不斷的攀爬去尋找活著的意義，直到死亡。（不論是實質或是抽象上的死亡）
這篇文章挺適合發生山難事件後就吵吵鬧鬧的台灣，沒有人會想死在山上，只是有時意外就是會發生，跟路上車禍意外的道理相同。當社會進步有人本來就不會只再甘願停留在物質需求上，而會試著追求內心的自我實現。沒有對錯，只有自我選擇。
只挑後半段最有感觸的翻，其實前半段寫得也很好，只是有點長懶得翻了
--------------------------------
本月，Jess Roskelley, Hansjörg Auer 和David Lama 在班夫北方的 Howse Peak進行 alpine climbing時，葬身於一場雪崩之中。在
餘波之中，我們的攀登社群再次開啟有關登山中最錯綜複雜的討論：死亡與悲劇。
When will the deaths stop? Our collective wonders. I ask it, too, but I know better. They won’t. High-end climbing is going to get more risky, not less.
The routes are becoming more technically demanding, in more remote areas, and the method of “light and fast”— minimal gear, no fixed ropes, doing the route in a single push — is now regarded as the best style. These trends, and others, have made the sport of alpine climbing very, very dangerous.
什麼時候不會再有死亡？我也很希望，但我知道這是不可能的。
頂尖的攀登者的風險只會越來越高，不會減少。路線變得越來越困難、在更偏僻的山區、加上目前已被認為最好的登山風格：輕快登山(Light and Fast)，最小化的裝備、不用固定繩、一次性的完成路線。這些趨勢，加上高山其他的因素，使得 alpine climbing 變得非常危險。
In the aftermath, blame is common. The deceased are blamed for taking so much risk. They’re called selfish. Selfish for leaving behind sons and daughters, wives and girlfriends, husbands and boyfriends, devastated mothers and fathers to pick up the pieces.
Selfish, the claim goes, for not understanding that others are invested in their lives and that if they are gone, they take a piece of another with them. Some have said that if these climbers truly knew the impact of their deaths, they would pack it up.
Yes, agreed, but the climbers who died on Howse Peak and the dozens of others I know have been anything but selfish. They were or are devoted husbands, wives, selfless friends and loving fathers and mothers. And confident, determined and overly ambitious. Yes, they can be accused of that.
在事件發生後，指責是很正常的。死者被責怪從事如此高風險的活動是自私的。
自私地留下兒子和女兒，妻子和女朋友，丈夫和男朋友，悲痛欲絕的父母來收拾殘局。
自私的沒有考慮到他們也是別人生命中的一部分，如果他們走了，這一部分就跟著分離了。
https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/27/opinion/mountain-climbing.html
登山的意義到底是什麼？到底這些攀登的人是不是頭腦有病沒事為什麼不待在家要上山去浪費社會資源？
月中才在炫耀在 Canmore 攀岩場遇到 David Lama，然後幾週前大神們就遇到雪崩被埋掛了……
不管你今天爬的是陽明山還是百岳還是世界百岳，登山就是不管你做了再多準備，也無法完全把風險降為零，有人可能不小心跌倒就撞到頭掛了，有人可能滑落山壁十幾米也沒事。
月中才在炫耀在 Canmore 攀岩場遇到 David Lama，然後幾週前大神們就遇到雪崩被埋掛了……
不管你今天爬的是陽明山還是百岳還是世界百岳，登山就是不管你做了再多準備，也無法完全把風險降為零，有人可能不小心跌倒就撞到頭掛了，有人可能滑落山壁十幾米也沒事。
爬山爬越多，越來越相信命運說，命中註定遇到的就是會遇到，其他的也只能交給上帝決定......(當然前提是該有的準備還是要做足啦)
討論登山的意義本身是件沒有意義的事，我們，莫名愛上攀登的登山者，只能靠不斷的攀爬去尋找活著的意義，直到死亡。（不論是實質或是抽象上的死亡）
這篇文章挺適合發生山難事件後就吵吵鬧鬧的台灣，沒有人會想死在山上，只是有時意外就是會發生，跟路上車禍意外的道理相同。當社會進步有人本來就不會只再甘願停留在物質需求上，而會試著追求內心的自我實現。沒有對錯，只有自我選擇。
只挑後半段最有感觸的翻，其實前半段寫得也很好，只是有點長懶得翻了
一樣隨便翻看不懂自己估狗不要戰我
--------------------------------
This month, Jess Roskelley, Hansjörg Auer and David Lama died in an avalanche while alpine climbing on the east face of the 10,810-foot Howse Peak, north of Banff, in Alberta, Canada. They were, respectively, 36, 35 and 28. In the aftermath, our community of climbers has once again laid down on the couch and resumed our conversation about mountaineering’s biggest complex: death and tragedy.
餘波之中，我們的攀登社群再次開啟有關登山中最錯綜複雜的討論：死亡與悲劇。
Nearly all mountaineers will say they “are aware” of the risks. They’re not lying. They have a lot of friends who have died, most likely dozens. But risk is a strange thing. In the mountains, you talk about death a lot: A feature can be called a “death block,” a section a “death pitch,” or a camp a “death bivouac.” Often, you ponder what could happen if you kept going up in a storm, but never about yourself dying. Dying happens to someone else, until it doesn’t. This doesn’t make climbers ignorant, just human. Plus, too much obsession on death takes away your positivity and focus, the most valuable assets in climbing, but those, too, can obscure risk.
幾乎所有的登山者都會說，他們了解風險的存在。這是真的，他們可能有很多朋友曾死在山中。
但是風險是個很奇怪的事情，在山上我們常談論到死亡，很多地形特徵都用死亡命名 “death block” 、 “death pitch” 、 “death bivouac”。一般來說，你會仔細衡量在暴風雪中上升的後果，但從來不會聯想到死亡。死亡這件事永遠都只會發生在別人身上，直到你自己遇到。
不能因為這樣就說登山者是愚昧無知的，這只是人性。
此外，如果太在乎死亡這件事，將會降低你的衝勁與專注力，這兩樣都是攀登種最有價值的資產，雖然說，這也同時帶來風險。
Slowly, over time, you take more risk without knowing it. Your skills get better and you become more versed in navigating dangerous mountain terrain. Your confidence builds. When you succeed time and time again in do-or-die situations, it’s like repeatedly getting heads after 20 coin flips; you think you’ll just get heads again.
And when you’ve traveled around the world, spent thousands of dollars to get there and are only 300 very dangerous feet from the top, you push on. Yes, risk is part of the allure, but a small part.
慢慢的，你會承受越來越多的風險而不自覺。
你的技巧越來越好因此可以更熟練的通過危險的高山地形，你的自信心增加。當你一次又一次的在生死交關的情況中成功，這就像你連續丟了 20次硬幣都丟到頭像，你覺得下次還是會再次丟到頭像一樣。
當你花了幾萬塊到國外登山，然後只差不到一百公尺就可以登頂，你決定要放手一拚 push 自己。是的，風險也許是誘因的一部分，但只是一小部分。
You’d think that cutting-edge alpinists were a bunch of adrenaline junkies, but they’re not. Jess, David and Hansjörg were not. Alpinists are highly analytical, supremely aware and often tightly controlled. This is what it takes to see your 30th birthday. In a musing on death and tragedy, the British climber Andy Kirkpatrick pondered, “Maybe it’s not a weak man who pulls out the needle and walks away.” In rare instances, climbers see their shadows and do walk away.
你會認為尖端的登山者是一群腎上腺素癮君子，但事實並非如此。 Jess、David 和 Hansjörg 也不是。 登山者要具備高度的分析能力、極度的覺知、洞察力與知識，並且常常要嚴格的自我受控。 這就是你在 30 歲生日時會看到的。 在對死亡和悲劇的沉思中，英國登山者 Andy Kirkpatrick 如此沉思：“一個人在拔出針頭就遠遠走離，也許他不是一個軟弱的人。” 在極少數情況下，登山者會看到他們的陰影並且真的會走離開。
幾乎所有的登山者都會說，他們了解風險的存在。這是真的，他們可能有很多朋友曾死在山中。
但是風險是個很奇怪的事情，在山上我們常談論到死亡，很多地形特徵都用死亡命名 “death block” 、 “death pitch” 、 “death bivouac”。一般來說，你會仔細衡量在暴風雪中上升的後果，但從來不會聯想到死亡。死亡這件事永遠都只會發生在別人身上，直到你自己遇到。
不能因為這樣就說登山者是愚昧無知的，這只是人性。
此外，如果太在乎死亡這件事，將會降低你的衝勁與專注力，這兩樣都是攀登種最有價值的資產，雖然說，這也同時帶來風險。
Slowly, over time, you take more risk without knowing it. Your skills get better and you become more versed in navigating dangerous mountain terrain. Your confidence builds. When you succeed time and time again in do-or-die situations, it’s like repeatedly getting heads after 20 coin flips; you think you’ll just get heads again.
And when you’ve traveled around the world, spent thousands of dollars to get there and are only 300 very dangerous feet from the top, you push on. Yes, risk is part of the allure, but a small part.
慢慢的，你會承受越來越多的風險而不自覺。
你的技巧越來越好因此可以更熟練的通過危險的高山地形，你的自信心增加。當你一次又一次的在生死交關的情況中成功，這就像你連續丟了 20次硬幣都丟到頭像，你覺得下次還是會再次丟到頭像一樣。
當你花了幾萬塊到國外登山，然後只差不到一百公尺就可以登頂，你決定要放手一拚 push 自己。是的，風險也許是誘因的一部分，但只是一小部分。
You’d think that cutting-edge alpinists were a bunch of adrenaline junkies, but they’re not. Jess, David and Hansjörg were not. Alpinists are highly analytical, supremely aware and often tightly controlled. This is what it takes to see your 30th birthday. In a musing on death and tragedy, the British climber Andy Kirkpatrick pondered, “Maybe it’s not a weak man who pulls out the needle and walks away.” In rare instances, climbers see their shadows and do walk away.
你會認為尖端的登山者是一群腎上腺素癮君子，但事實並非如此。 Jess、David 和 Hansjörg 也不是。 登山者要具備高度的分析能力、極度的覺知、洞察力與知識，並且常常要嚴格的自我受控。 這就是你在 30 歲生日時會看到的。 在對死亡和悲劇的沉思中，英國登山者 Andy Kirkpatrick 如此沉思：“一個人在拔出針頭就遠遠走離，也許他不是一個軟弱的人。” 在極少數情況下，登山者會看到他們的陰影並且真的會走離開。
When will the deaths stop? Our collective wonders. I ask it, too, but I know better. They won’t. High-end climbing is going to get more risky, not less.
The routes are becoming more technically demanding, in more remote areas, and the method of “light and fast”— minimal gear, no fixed ropes, doing the route in a single push — is now regarded as the best style. These trends, and others, have made the sport of alpine climbing very, very dangerous.
什麼時候不會再有死亡？我也很希望，但我知道這是不可能的。
頂尖的攀登者的風險只會越來越高，不會減少。路線變得越來越困難、在更偏僻的山區、加上目前已被認為最好的登山風格：輕快登山(Light and Fast)，最小化的裝備、不用固定繩、一次性的完成路線。這些趨勢，加上高山其他的因素，使得 alpine climbing 變得非常危險。
In the aftermath, blame is common. The deceased are blamed for taking so much risk. They’re called selfish. Selfish for leaving behind sons and daughters, wives and girlfriends, husbands and boyfriends, devastated mothers and fathers to pick up the pieces.
Selfish, the claim goes, for not understanding that others are invested in their lives and that if they are gone, they take a piece of another with them. Some have said that if these climbers truly knew the impact of their deaths, they would pack it up.
Yes, agreed, but the climbers who died on Howse Peak and the dozens of others I know have been anything but selfish. They were or are devoted husbands, wives, selfless friends and loving fathers and mothers. And confident, determined and overly ambitious. Yes, they can be accused of that.
在事件發生後，指責是很正常的。死者被責怪從事如此高風險的活動是自私的。
自私地留下兒子和女兒，妻子和女朋友，丈夫和男朋友，悲痛欲絕的父母來收拾殘局。
自私的沒有考慮到他們也是別人生命中的一部分，如果他們走了，這一部分就跟著分離了。
有人會說如果這些登山者真的了解他們死亡帶來的衝擊，他們就該放棄。
是的，我同意，但在 Howse peak 葬身的這三位登山者與其他一堆我所認識的人，他們絕不是自私的。他們都是忠實的丈夫、妻子、無私的朋友和慈愛的父母。也同時自信、堅定與過於有野心。是的，他們可以被指責。
Selfish? No. Unable to see with absolute sobriety how dangerous their path is? Likely.
But again, that doesn’t make them selfish, only human. Dying happens to someone else, until it doesn’t. The people who loved them didn’t do so in spite of their love for climbing, but because of it.
你無法指責他們自私。但是指責他們無法完全清醒的去了解選擇的路途有多危險？也許可以，但再次強調這絕對稱不上自私，這只是人性。死亡這件事永遠都只會發生在別人身上，直到你自己遇到。
One truth goes to the heart of death in our community: You can’t fall out of love with something. Having known two of the three men who died on Howse Peak, I know that climbing made them feel alive. The question is — could we feel alive enough if we stopped? Most climbers think not.
在這次死亡事件本質中不變的真理：你不能失去對某些事物的熱愛。認識三位死者中的兩位，我知道是攀登讓他們感覺活著。
唯一要問的問題是：假如我們停止攀登，我們還能找到活著的意義嗎？
大多數的登山者應該都覺得不行。
We need only to look to the loved ones left behind for guidance. David Lama’s parents, Claudia and Rinzi Lama, released a statement after their son’s death: “David dedicated his life to the mountains and his passion for climbing, and alpinism shaped and accompanied our family. He always followed his own path and lived his dream. We will accept what now happened as a part of that.”
我們只需要對留下來的親人尋求指引。David Lama 的父母，Claudia and Rinzi Lama在兒子去世後發了一篇聲明稿：David 將他的一生奉獻給了山和他對攀登的熱情，而登山運動塑造並伴隨著我們的家庭。 他總是走著自己的路，實現自己的夢想。 作為其中的一部分，我們將接受現在發生的事情。”
Allison Roskelley, Jess’s wife, wrote, “Your dream was engrained in your soul, and that is something I never imagined taking away from you.” She added, “I knew your No. 1 priority was to come back home to your family, and although the universe had a different plan for you, I know you would have done anything in your power to do so.”
Jess 的妻子 Allison Roskelley 寫道：你的夢想根深蒂固的存在靈魂之中，這是我從未想過從你身上奪走的東西。 她補充說，我知道你的第一要務是回到你的家人身邊，然而宇宙對你有不同的計劃，但我知道你會做任何一切能做的事情。”
But again, that doesn’t make them selfish, only human. Dying happens to someone else, until it doesn’t. The people who loved them didn’t do so in spite of their love for climbing, but because of it.
你無法指責他們自私。但是指責他們無法完全清醒的去了解選擇的路途有多危險？也許可以，但再次強調這絕對稱不上自私，這只是人性。死亡這件事永遠都只會發生在別人身上，直到你自己遇到。
One truth goes to the heart of death in our community: You can’t fall out of love with something. Having known two of the three men who died on Howse Peak, I know that climbing made them feel alive. The question is — could we feel alive enough if we stopped? Most climbers think not.
在這次死亡事件本質中不變的真理：你不能失去對某些事物的熱愛。認識三位死者中的兩位，我知道是攀登讓他們感覺活著。
唯一要問的問題是：假如我們停止攀登，我們還能找到活著的意義嗎？
大多數的登山者應該都覺得不行。
留言
張貼留言